Sunday, June 24, 2007





Absolutely, a trip up the Sani Pass in the Drakensberg Mountains to the high altitude kingdom of Lesotho was one of the big highlights of the trip. A bumpy, and sometimes scary trip up the very basic road switchbacking repeatedly as it threaded its way endlessly up finally topped us out at 10,000 ft where we reached the border post into Lesotho. One of the most desolate, and poorest (that's saying a lot) countries in southern Africa, Lesotho is very atmospheric to say the least. The people are very friendly and hospitable. They seem to spend most of the day wrapped in blankets and sitting in the sun in order to stay warm. We were invited into one of the homes to experience what a Lesotho home is like. We were baked delicious fresh bread, and given homemade beer (which was not so delicious). The houses were stone built with mud chinking to keep out the wind. The roof was thatched, and all the materials for the roof had to be imported from far below because none of those materials grew at high altitude. There were no windows because they would only let out any heat, and the door always faced north in order to let in the sunlight. Although we had to turn around and go back down, the road continued across the intriguing countryside. I thought a motorcycle would be the perfect vehicle for exploration here.




Dropping down from the highlands of the Drakensbergs to the lowlands of the coastal areas of the Indian Ocean I entered one of my favorite areas of the country, the Karoo which I would re-enter again. The arid conditions were very comfortable, although I am sure during the hot summer I would think otherwise. Still, the sparseness of the area appealed to me.



Grahamstown has much to offer to the traveler as well as the largest arts festival in South Africa. One of the most interesting items is the Observatory Museum. It was built by a Victorian gentleman that had an insatiable curiosity. He incorporated into the building housing his home and jewelery business a turret looking affair that was in reality a camera obscura. It was adjustable in rotation and elevation, and projected onto a white concave disc below a perfect image of what was happening on the streets of Grahamstown. It was used by those searching for another. For a small fee they could use the camera obscura to view the streets looking for those they were in need of. Once they found them a messenger was dispensed.




When I reached Grahamstown I gave Dominic Thorburn, Professor of the Printmaking department at Rhodes University a call. I explained I was a student of printmaking with a research grant from UWL to study printmaking in South Africa, and would appreciate it if I could have a tour of his facilities. We set up an appointment for the next morning, and graciously was received at the appointed time. Unfortunately the students were studying for mid-term exams, and so I was unable to talk with them and discuss their work. However, Dominic was very generous with his time, and gave me a lengthy tour of his facilities, and also pulled many prints out of the files to show me what his students were doing. I was very impressed with the extensive facilities offered, and couldn't help but hope the students were aware of how fortunate they were.

Saturday, June 23, 2007





Certainly not as plush or as well funded as the university studios, but still vibrant places teaching art skills to blacks off the street are the Community Art Centers. After the fall of Apartheid, South Africa began building community art centers in order to teach the previously repressed blacks art skills in order to help them make a living. Egazini Art Center in Grahamstown is of this tradition. Outside the building is a stuccoed mural wall welcoming the practicing artist and visitor. Inside the various mediums from printmaking and textiles to dance art taught. All of the artists were very friendly and most anxious to share their work.

Monday, June 18, 2007





The Karoo was one of my favorite areas. It reminded me strongly of our own southwestern states. It was a dry, arid place where rain often fell, but evaporated before it reached the ground. There was a lot of dust in the air, producing a haze that turned ranges of mountains into continually lighter hues of blue as they receded away. There were national parks such as Cambeboo, Mountain Zebra, and the Great Karoo which had great wildlife viewing, and atmospheric places where one could perch and listen to the primordial silence. At night the universe came out in all its glory. This was "Afrikans" country, the Dutch settlers that came to settle this new country and make it their own. Their beautiful small towns, such as Oudtshoorn, that dot this arid country showed strong influences of the past and their connection to the Dutch Reformed Church.

Saturday, June 16, 2007





Cape Agulhas, sometimes known as South Cape, is the most southern point on the African continent. It is where the Atlantic Ocean and the Indian Ocean meet. There isn't much there to see, other than the lighthouse and the marker showing the exact spot. None the less it is neat to stand there and see the land on both sides of you recede behind you, with the waves crashing in front of you onto the point. The drive to Cape Agulhas, as always in South Africa, gave many wonderful opportunities to capture an image.




Hermanus, a coastal village part way between Cape Agulhus and Cape Town is world renown for its whale watching. It claims to have "the best land based whale watching in the world!"
The Southern Right Whale heads to the bay at Hermanus to calve and raise its young before heading back to the Antarctic waters to feed for the summer. There is a cliff walk along the edge of the bay for whale watching. I was a little early in the season, and so didn't manage to spot any whales blowing, sailing, leaping, tail splashing, or any of the other cool things whales do. However, there was still plenty of beauty to enjoy during the hike.




Cape town with its fabled Table Mountain was my final destination. Not that I ever got to see Table Mountain mind you. I had the only "bad" weather here of the entire trip. As is typical for Cape Town due to its position near the meeting point of the Atlantic and Indian Oceans, the weather was cool and rainy. Table mountain wore a veiling cloud, known locally as the "table cloth" the entire time I was there. Not being a person that is overly fond of large cities, I decided to jump into my car and head for Cape Point National Park which is on a peninsula heading south from Cape Town. The drive along the coast down and back gave breath taking views, and Cape Point with its lighthouse and dramatic shoreline provided additional spectacular scenery. Along the way I stopped to check out a colony of African Penguins which are one of the few species of penguins that live on continental shores outside of Antartica.
Last, but certainly not least, is my little red friend that carried me so faithfully to wherever my whim so dictated. It added immensely to the experience by affording me endless access. I grew rather fond of it!